
The piece of wreckage outside Avarua harbour,
commonly referred to as "The Boiler",
is not actually a boiler at all, but the remains
of a triple-expansion steam engine, once the
propulsion unit of the Royal Mail Steamer "Maitai".
On a voyage from San Francisco, the ship was
carrying 43 passengers, 900 tons of cargo and
1400 bags of mail for Wellington. She had called
at Rarotonga on Christmas day 1916 to uplift
fruit. That evening she dragged her anchor and
struck the reef.
A popular rumour has it that 400 cars were
salvaged from the wreck and every family on
Rarotonga at the time could be seen driving
a Model-T Ford. However, old photos don't support
the rumour.
Other vessels wrecked in or near Avarua harbour
in more recent times are "Tahitienne"
(1949), "Rannah" (1954), "Siren"
(1957), "Taveuni" (1963) and "Yankee"
(1964). No trace remains of any of these other
vessels, but the "Maitai's" engine
remains a landmark.
Annual events involving the wreck, include
a "Round the Boiler" swim, and a "Big
Ball Race" by radio-controlled "Electron"
model yachts.
In heavy swells the spot is a favourite for
board surfers, and in times of cyclones huge
seas can be seen breaking clear over the top
of the engine.
So far it hasn't moved, but sceptics predict
that one day it will land up in The Trader's
bar. That will be a conversation piece to look
forward to!
Don Silk was harbourmaster at Rarotonga’s
biggest harbour, Avatiu, for many years. He
has long lived in the Cook Islands and was the
co-founder of the country’s first shipping
company.
His local knowledge is second to none –
and he has more anecdotes about Traders and
the Trader himself than almost anyone else.
Before he retired in 2002 Don and Jack enjoyed
a fierce rivalry over the merits of their respective
harbours.